The Catazajá lakes at dusk

Trip report · September 2025

Northern Swamps of Chiapas

Thick-knees, Upland Sandpipers, and seven Jabirus at sunset

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Published

Date: 22nd August 2025

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Mission Targets:

Spot-tailed Nightjar · Jabiru · Agami Heron · American Pygmy Kingfisher · Upland Sandpiper

Key Locations:

  1. Palenque (El Panchán & Market)
  2. Ranch road edges (northern Chiapas)
  3. Private cattle ranch & lake (base camp)

Overview

A two-day adventure into the northern wetlands of Chiapas produced an exceptional set of sightings. Our mission was ambitious—five target species rarely guaranteed in Chiapas. By the end of Day 1 we had already materialised three of them, with Upland Sandpiper and a flock of seven Jabirus among the highlights. The journey also delivered a colourful supporting cast of hummingbirds, raptors, and open-country birds, making this one of the most memorable outings yet.


Stop 1: Palenque – El Panchán & Market

Time: ~11:00 AM – 1:00 PM
Habitat: Forest edge, urban market

After a dawn departure from San Cristóbal, we paused at Palenque for both strategy and tacos. While fish tacos at El Panchán hit the spot, the birding was equally rewarding:

  • White-necked Jacobin (♂ & ♀): Cooperative views at flowering trees.
  • Wedge-tailed Sabrewing, White-bellied Emerald, Buff-breasted Hummingbird, Rufous-tailed Hummingbird, Long-billed Hermit: A fine hummingbird mix.

At the lively local market, amid tropical produce, the atmosphere set the stage for the wetland habitats awaiting us farther north.


Stop 2: Ranch Roadside Birding

Time: 3:00 PM – 3:20 PM
Habitat: Hot open fields, scattered trees

A quick roadside session in searing afternoon heat gave us several standout species:

  • Double-striped Thick-knee (2): First views of this grassland specialist.
  • Laughing Falcon (1): Classic dry-forest predator.
  • White-tailed Hawk (1): Carrying a snake, a dramatic sighting.

With heat exhaustion setting in, shade and water became our priority before entering the ranch proper.


Stop 3: Cattle Ranch & Lake (Base Camp)

Time: 3:30 PM – sunset
Habitat: Wetlands, lake edge, pasture

The heart of the trip and the moment when our targets materialised:

  • Upland Sandpiper (5): Seen immediately upon entering the ranch, running in grass just 10 meters from the car — an ecstatic lifer moment.
  • Jabiru (7): Initially a “false alarm” at distance, then confirmed in scope views. Observed feeding and resting at lake edge for over an hour — the day’s highlight.
  • Yellow-headed Amazon (2): Heard calling (“wa’ah, wa’ah”) before perching atop a tree near camp.
  • Russet-naped Wood-Rail, Wood Stork, Great Black Hawk (2): Excellent supporting cast around the wetlands.
  • Large crocodiles: Patrolled the shallows, adding to the wild atmosphere.

Other herons, shorebirds, and local waterbirds filled out the checklist, though Agami Heron remained elusive.


Evening & Camp

As we set up camp and shared tamales, storm clouds built on the horizon. A lightning storm added drama to the scene, ending the day with spectacular views across the lake.


Final Thoughts

By the end of the first day, Upland Sandpiper and Jabiru were securely ticked, alongside a suite of classic lowland species. The ranch proved a spectacular base for wetland birding in Chiapas, with a mix of excitement, surprise, and raw wilderness. With a boat ride scheduled for the following morning, anticipation was high for more target species.

Targets achieved (Day 1): Jabiru, Upland Sandpiper
Total species (Day 1): 52